This Sunday I had lunch at my favorite restaurant, the French Laundry, with Nancy and her husband Craig. Any meal there is an event, but this was the first time I was able to get a reservation for lunch. I've had dinner there twice, late in the evening. I looked forward to lunch and strolling around Yountville, the town where the restaurant is located.
The above photo is the French Laundry garden located across the street from the restaurant. I have a small garden in my back yard and I wish mine looked as well tended as this. Like everything else connected with this restaurant, superb attention is paid to even the smallest details--including absolutely spotless weeding around the plants.
We were seated at a table next to the window in the upstairs dining room. The sun was shining through the window onto our table and it was lovely. As we always do, Nancy and I opted for the nine course tasting menu and Craig chose the
seven course menu, with it's larger portions. Nancy and I also decided
to have the wine tasting option. We discussed our wine preferences
with our waiter and left the choices in his hands. I wish I could tell you
exactly what wines we had--but it all became a blur. For a good reason,
as you will see.
Shortly after we sat down, three small Gruyere pate a choux puffs were placed on the table. They were hot, perfectly baked and the taste of the Gruyere was strong and nutty, making my taste buds stand at attention. Our first wine, a Demi-sec champagne from France, accompanied the cheese puff. I can't remember the name of the wine, even though I was told it several times. I guess I should take a picture of the bottle next time.
Next, three small salmon tartar coronets, one of the signature dishes of the restaurant, were placed on the table for us. I always wish I could have more than one of these little cones.
When Nancy and I saw the tasting menu, I was disappointed that my favorite dish, Oysters and Pearls, was not listed. I commented on this to my waiter and he apologized, explaining that they rotated some dishes off the menu for a while. Shortly after that, my waiter placed the first course before me, a little smile on his face. When I lifted the lid, I saw that it was Oysters and Pearls! Nancy was served one too. It was such a nice thing to do for us, and so typical of the type of service you get there. It was perfect, two Beau Soleil oysters and sevruga caviar in a sabayon with tapioca.
The next course was truly amazing. The woman sitting at the table next to us, turned and asked if we had ever tasted anything so delicious? Well, this dish is in my top five Great Dishes. It was Carnaroli Risotto Biologoco, a risotto made with castelmango cheese and shaved white truffles from Alba. We were shown a box with the white truffle nestled inside and allowed to smell the aroma, which is intense and unique. Then, a substantial amount of the truffle was shaved onto the risotto at our table. I'm sorry that the photo doesn't show the perfect rice and the cheese "foam" around the edges of the grains. Nancy said to me, "Now I know why people talk about truffles being extraordinary." I've had black truffles before, but this was something else.
We had a new, excellent white wine with this course, and at this point Nancy drastically cut back on her wine consumption. This meant that I was receiving her share of wine throughout the meal. And since each wine was quite delicious, I was very happy to do that. In fact, I became happier and happier as the meal progressed.
Our first fish course was Grilled Pave of Canadian Bluefin Tuna, fine green beans, tomato "confit", dry farmed "La Ratte" potatoes "ecrassee" and Spanish caper emulsion. It's sort of boring to kept saying a dish is "wonderful" and "delicious", but it was. Maybe I'm just easy, but all their dishes are amazing. We were served another excellent white wine at this point, with Nancy drinking a few sips, and me drinking two full glasses.
The second fish course was Sweet Butter Poached Maine Lobster Tail with a fondue of brussels sprouts, chestnut puree, and celeriac cream. I am not a fan of brussels sprouts, but I loved them fixed this way. And the lobster as always, was silky soft. The celeriac cream was perfect with all the other items.
The poultry course was "Aiguillette" of duck Breast, with caramelized fennel bulb, pumpkin compote, and sauce aux epices". This dish showed how each component is memorable. The pumpkin was sweet, with a little acidity and would have been nice to eat all alone.
Herb roasted saddle of Elysian Fields Farm Lamb, crispy globe artichokes, sweet garlic confit, piquillo pepper "tapenade" and sauce gremolata. Each element of this dish was so well done. I particularly like the garlic. Nancy and I were served an excellant red wine with the lamb.
Craig's meat dish was New Zealand Venison, roasted mushrooms, young onions, applewood smoked bacon, leek "pain perdu" and sauce poivrade. He visibly enjoyed it very much.
Craig's cheese course was a "Wedge Salad" of Persille Du Beaujolais, Roma tomato confit, little gem lettuces, and grilled melba.
Nancy and I had a cheese course "Tomme De L'Ariege", a slow poached prune, Serrano ham, and whole grain mustard sauce. We were both very pleased with the way the plump prune contrasted with the salty ham and the pungent cheese.
Our first sugar course was Satsuma Mandarin Sorbet, with a lime foam and very thin cookie. This was my favorite dessert. The citrus taste was so vivid, rich with the oil of the fruit. Nancy and I were served our last wine, a sweet red wine. It wasn't cloying like many sweet wines can be.
Craig's first sugar course was a pineapple sorbet, with compressed pineapple, Tahitian Vanilla spongecake and passion fruit reduction, with a pineapple "flower" on top.
My second sugar course was Valhona Chocolate Dome, with Tupelo Honey cream and pistachio nougat and a bitter chocolate choulis.
Craig second sugar course was a "Creamsicle"--orange scented ice cream, almond streusel, marscapone cream, and chocolate liquid crunch. The crunch was poured over his ice cream at the table and instantly hardened into a hard shell.
We finished the meal with Meyer lemon pot du creme, creme brulee, and assorted chocolates and coffee.
My creme brulee, which was rich and eggy.
It was a truly memorable meal, and would have been even more so if my brain hadn't stepped in and saved the day. Because I drank a good portion of Nancy's share of the wine, (she has a very small stomach) I wound up drinking eight glasses of wine. I don't ever drink large amounts of alcohol and certainly not this amount. But, the wine was delicious and I felt fine, very fine, as I sat at the table. Standing up was another matter entirely. As I stood, my body immediately went on TILT mode and I felt myself falling backwards. I immediately envisioned a scene from Saturday Night Live with me falling flat on the table behind me, dishes flying in all directions. Fortunately, my brain issued a correction and I lurched forward, nearly belly flopping onto our table. I made it out of the restaurant with my dignity intact and without ruining the meals of other diners. I avoided a messy law suit, and I wasn't blacklisted from coming back to the restaurant. I was very, very happy.
And additional note: Nancy told me that after she was home, she realized her coat had been left at the restaurant. She called the French Laundry and they mailed the coat to her house. It arrived in two days, post paid, and insured by the restaurant. While grateful, we weren't really surprised. They try to do everything perfectly.
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